Shake it up a little: Take a seaplane to Victoria, B.C.
By KELLY RUHOFF Editor
Victoria’s metropolitan comes into view as the pilot of Kenmore’s Air deHavilland Beaver floatplane lands in the harbor of British Columbia’s capital. The excitement builds just walking out onto the dock of Kenmore Air as Lake Union gently rocks underneath. Luggage is heaved onto the seaplane and a small ladder dangles from the cockpit, a welcome mat to passengers to climb onboard.
Three seats on each side of the craft lookout over the wings as it taxies from the south end of the lake north toward Gas Works Park before turning around to gain speed and then, elevation.
Suddenly, Seattle’s Space Needle fills the windows as Puget Sound, the city, and Queen Anne Hill give way.
A flotilla of sailboats bob in the bay below as Kingston Ferry Dock comes into view, the lush green fields and forests of the peninsula are only slightly upstaged by white capped Olympic Mountains, seemingly close enough to touch.
Springtime at The Empress. Victoria’s famous hotel has stood the test of time for more that a century. A new slate roof and other renovations have helped to restore it to its elegance. A short time into the flight, Vancouver Island appears, like her majesty herself, crowned by British Columbia’s capital city of Victoria as the pilot lands in the Inner Harbor.
As the door swings open, a light breeze rushes in and the smell of salt fills the cabin.
Fish and chips anyone?
Fun ways to get there
For northwesteners, a weekend to Victoria, or just a day trip, has always been a popular destination – and there are only two ways to get there – by boat or air.
The commercial options by boat are taking a ferry from Anacortes or Tsawwassen, B.C. to Sidney, or to Inner Harbor on the Victoria Clipper – a private hydrofoil, high-speed walk-on ferry that departs from Pier 69 in Seattle, three times per day June – August (www.clippervacations. com).
Live Celtic music plays at Irish Times Pub on Government Street in Victoria seven days a week. PHOTO BY KELLY RUHOFF | STANWOOD/CAMANO NEWS By air, there are a handful of commercial carriers to choose from, but for those with an adventurous spirit a seaplane is the way to go. It also cuts the travel time down to one hour (45 minutes actually in the air)! Still, sightseeing through the San Juan Islands by ferry is amazing – it just takes half of the day to get there.
Kenmore Air (www.kenmoreair.com), based in Seattle, flies from Lake Union to Victoria’s Inner Harbor four times each day. For my husband’s birthday last month, I surprised him with a “bucket list” item – a seaplane flight.
There was no waiting in a long line at SeaTac, or hassle with parking the car at an offsite lot. Passengers simply arrive an hour prior to departure with their passports in hand. Vehicles may be left there or close by at an adjacent lot, and both are within walking distance.
Kenmore’s fleet is mostly made up of seven-passenger piston deHavilland Beaver floatplanes, powered by a 450 horsepower Pratt Whitney R-985 radial engine. Despite the fact the last Beaver was manufactured in 1967, the company believes they remain the most reliable plane in the industry.
Other floatplane companies in Seattle, such as Northwest Seaplanes (www. nwseaplanes.com) and Seattle Seaplanes (www.seattleseaplanes.com) also fly the deHavilland Beaver aircraft and offer charter and scenic flights.
Where to stay in Victoria
I booked a package deal through Kenmore Air that included the flights and two nights at the historic 1907 Empress Hotel, upgraded to the best room available. The hotel has been undergoing a major renovation the last few years, restoring its grandeur and elegance. A summer special directly through the Empress offers 25 percent off rooms (www.fairmont.com/ empress/HotelPackages).
But whether visitors choose to stay at the Empress or one of the other harborview hotels, walking through the hotel is pleasurable and for a little splurge, high tea at Victoria’s iconic establishment is as relaxing as a spa treatment. British tea, finger sandwiches, tarts, delicate pastries and chocolates round out a lazy afternoon.
What to see
Victoria is known as Canada’s garden city, which is easy to see. Beautiful flower gardens, planters and baskets adorn the British-influenced capital, where tradition shines like a beacon on a foggy night.
Bus tours can be arranged through hotels to visit Butchart Gardens, 55 acres of fabulous gardens, one of two “must-sees” listed by Frommer’s travel guide. It is a sight to behold.
Royal BC Museum is the other mustsee attraction, and is located right in the Inner Harbor area. It’s been said visitors can see all of British Columbia in just one afternoon spent at the museum. The BC Wax Museum brings familiar faces back to life and replicates those who are currently making history, both worth while.
Take a stroll along the expansive walkways. One starts at the end of Belleville Street near the Laurel Point Inn and follows the waterway to Fisherman’s Wharf. The second begins at the blue Johnson Street Bridge and continues along the water to the West Bay Marina. Herons, seals, mink, otters and sea lions can be spotted along the way.
Rent a kayak and take in views of the city and harbor that can only be experienced on the water or take a small covered water taxi.
To plan daily activities, a large tourist information center near the Empress Hotel is staffed with knowledgeable help.
Nightlife
Pubs, shops and eateries line Government Street. Irish Times Pub has live Celtic music seven nights a week, as does the Bard and the Banker a few doors down. Swans Suite Hotel in downtown Victoria, at 506 Pandora Street, has a popular brewpub and restaurant.
A weekend spent in Victoria feels more like a trip back in time and just when all the fun is about to end, a seaplane ride home offers yet one more adventure.
