Pairing award-winning local craft beer with food

The tideThe opportunity to learn about beer and food pairings can be enjoyed one pint, one course at a time. PHOTO BY ADAM STEWART | STANWOOD/CAMANO NEWS is changing as each craft brewer slides another round down the bar.

Maybe the Arrogant Bastard bottle label says it best: “This is an aggressive beer. You probably won’t like it.” It is, after all, not “tasteless fizzy yellow beer,” for which the U.S. was once known.

Fortunately, that’s changed. Ignoring the corporate giants and basing arguments off the ever-increasing number of craft breweries in the U.S., it’s not uncommon to hear someone who knows a thing or 12 about beer, saying the best beer in the world, by and large, comes from the U.S.

Not bad for a country that was banning the stuff less than 100 years ago; even better considering that in 1980, there were only four or five craft breweries in the U.S. There are more than 1,400 now, according to the Brewer’s Association, and they’re blowing up the notion of what beer can be.

All of which means there are more than enough variations and nuances within the beer market to begin seriously pairing beer with food, should diners be so inclined.

For those with a vague understanding of wine pairings, this rule of thumb can be followed, at least to start: Red wine = ale, white wine = lager, acidity = hops.

Begin matching delicate beer with delicate food, heavier beers with more intense flavors.

According to the Brewer’s Association food and beer pairing guide, “Intensity of flavor may involve many aspects: alcoholic strength, malt character, hop bitterness, sweetness, richness, roastiness, and so on.”

As with any pairing, the goal is to create and sustain dramatic tension through compliments and contrasts. Some pairings will depend more on compliments and others on contrasts, but balance is the ultimate goal, the Brewer’s Association notes. The ideal pairing works at multiple levels and keeps the taste buds making connections.

For example, a dry stout or smoked porter with beef roast is a classic pairing. Heavy beer, heavy meal — a compliment. Within the beer and the meal, though, contrasts can be achieved, along with more subtle compliments.

The meat has been rubbed in coffee grounds, perhaps, so a porter with espresso notes would be another subtle compliment. The meat is savory, though, dry-rubbed with spices, so the chocolate, molasses and licorice notes will sweetly contrast those flavors. A hint of vanilla or bourbon will mellow the heat from bold seasonings, the experts concur.

Scallops or mussels? A Witbier or similar style, with its delicate spice and coriander, is classic, according to the Brewer’s Association. Other pairings are based largely on contrasts. Spicy foods, like sausage, Mexican, or Thai, are cut nicely with something crisp and clean, like a Vienna lager (drier) or Maibock (sweeter).

Beer can also be paired with appetizers, cheeses or desserts. And, yeah, it can of course be drank by itself, on the patio, in the garage or around a fire. In bare feet or work boots. In fact, the Pacific Northwest is the perfect place to experience the full spectrum of U.S. beer, and to begin experiments in pairing — Washington, Oregon and California have led the country on its recent beer buzz, making a big showing at the 2010 World Beer Cup competition in Chicago, Ill. earlier this month,

More than 3,300 beers were entered from 642 breweries around the globe to compete in 90 style categories. Twelve beers from eight breweries in Washington state took home medals. California and Oregon were the only two states with more entries than Washington.

Despite 45 medals going to California breweries, Washington matched the lead-entry state with 11 percent of its competition beers winning medals.

Black Raven Brewing Co. in Redmond, Snipes Mountain Brewing Co. in Sunnyside, Golden Hills Brewing Co. in Reardon, Walking Man Brewing in Stevenson, Redhook Ales in Woodinville and Rock Bottom Brewery of Bellevue made up part of that percentage.

Two Bellingham brew houses, Boundary Bay Brewery and Chuckanut Brewery, also medaled.

Boundary Bay’s Dunkels Bock took a silver medal in the German-style Doppelbock or Eisbock category and their Imperial IPA (India pale ale) and Cabin Fever (Strong Ale) took home the bronze.

Chuckanut’s Dunkel received a gold medal in the European-style dark/Münchner Dunkel category.

Will Kemper, brewmaster and owner of Chuckanut Brewery, said the World Beer Cup recognition is gratifying, but he isn’t shocked the Dunkel came out on top.

“That beer has never lost,” he said.

Described as “very German,” Dunkel is known for its deep reddish-brown coloring, capped with a sturdy tan head, with a slightly sweet nutty palate and complexity.

Kemper suggests matching its rich flavors with pork or beef.

“The caramel flavors pick up on browned meats and pan juices,” he added.

Another great companion is venison or a Ruben sandwich.

Kemper said the best way to pair beer and food is experimentation.

“The world of beer is extremely broad,” he said. “Understanding has to do with exposure and experience.”

Trying and comparing quality beer and food is at the heart of existence, said Kemper.

The brewmaster suggested the approach should be up to the individual. His experience with beer has led him to explore the scientific aspects of taste and flavor, but the “intent of pairing,” said Kemper, “is personal satisfaction and growth.”

Don’t forget time and place, added Kemper, a beer and meal in Bellingham can produce a vastly different moment than a beer and meal in Mexico.

That “moment,” according to Robb Morrell, chef at Chuckanut Brewery and Kitchen, can be achieved by anyone.

“Beer is supposed to be unpretentious,” said Morrell. “Push aside conventions and rules; beer is the everyman’s beverage.”

As Kemper rotates a variety of craft beers on tap, Morrell creates specials to play off their qualities.

A popular beer currently on tap, Rauch Bier, is often paired with smoked salmon or barbeque. The intense smokiness of the Rauch Bier is assertive and unique. Its flavors naturally bring out the smoking process in different dishes, said Morrell.

For the lighter appetite, the pale-colored Kolsch, with a combination of hops, malt and fruit flavors goes “terrific with salads,” said Morrell.

For the burger and pizza crowd, Morrell suggested the Altbier for its snappy bitterness and clean flavors.

On a quarterly basis, Chuckanut Brewery and Kitchen offers a beer pairing dinner. On May 19, the spring dinner will feature the Helles Lager with salad and bacon and Amber Ale with lamb, among other combinations.

Morrell said his focus is to remain seasonal while promoting local products.

Similar to the brewing process, the “ingredients should stand on their own without too much manipulation,” he said.

Although people around the world have been enjoying beer for centuries, Kemper admitted common knowledge behind matching a favorite meal with the right beer is not as sophisticated as wine, yet.

But the tide is changing as each craft brewer slides another round down the bar.

“Now there are options for people to become truly knowledgeable,” he said.

With those options, comes responsibility — from the brewers and the consumers alike.

“We’re talking about quality products versus high alcohol content, which is abusive to consumers,” said Kemper.

For Kemper, “quality and balance is better” than a beer crafted for high-alcohol content. The experimentation, then, is centered on taste.